General Information
Ironically, the area that is now Muir Woods National Monument was
saved from logging because in the 19th century it was just too hard
to get there. Located just 12 miles from the Golden Gate Bridge,
this old-growth stand is now wonderfully accessible to anyone who
wants to take a walk in the woods. If you’re looking for a
backcountry experience, you’ll have to go elsewhere –
around 1.5 million people visit the park each year. If you want
a leisurely stroll in an ancient forest to see some of the tallest
and oldest trees in the world, then Muir Woods is a great choice.
The 560-acre (226 hectare) park is 256 feet (78 metres) above sea
level. It is surrounded by the 6300 acre (2400 hectare) Mt. Tamalpais
State Park, and is part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area,
which stretches from the Presidio in San Francisco to 28 miles north
at Point Reyes.
The park is cool, shaded and moist year-round, due to summer coastal
fog and winter storms. Daytime temperatures average between 40 and
70 degrees F (5–21 Celsius), with an annual rainfall of about
40 inches (1 metre). Most of the precipitation occurs during the
winter and spring months.
The Trees
The Latin name for the coast redwood is sequoia sempervirons, the
ever-green sequoia, often translated as "ever-living."
Redwoods are survivors from 250 million years ago and continue to
be the dominant tree in the forests where they grow. Around 25 million
years ago they could be found across the entire northern hemisphere,
making them older than the Rockies or the Swiss Alps. The trees
have changed very little since then. As the earth changed over this
time the redwoods did not adapt well to meet the new challenges:
they retreated over the years to remain only on the far west of
the old continent.
They belong to the swamp-cypress family of conifers, or cone-bearing
trees.
From over a dozen original species of redwoods, only three have
survived to the present day. All of them live in mostly protected
areas:
The Dawn Redwood lives in central China and grows up to 140ft (42
m) tall and 6 ft (2m) wide.
The Giant Sequoias, living in 75 groves in the Sierra Nevada Mountains
of eastern California are the largest trees on earth in terms of
volume, growing up to 270ft (82m) tall and 36ft (11m) wide. They
live up to 3500 years. The largest is the General Sherman and lives
in Sequoia National Park, just south of Yosemite.
The Coast Redwood grows only along a 475mile strip of northern
California coastline, from Big Sur in the south to just over the
Oregon border in the north.
They will not survive within reach of the salt spray from the ocean.
The breezes dehydrate the trees, killing the foliage. They also
do not survive too far from the ocean - they are not found further
than 42 miles inland. The trees require a cooler climate and need
the moisture from the coastal fog to survive the dry Californian
summer. The highest elevation they will grow is 3200ft (1000m).
They grow best where the climate is warm and moist, the ideal temperature
being around 65 degrees. Only in the far north of California is
there enough rainfall to sustain the trees. Elsewhere, the trees
rely on the California coastal fog for moisture during the summer
months. In Muir Woods, the annual rainfall averages 40 inches (1
metre) – around 90% of it between October and March. The summer
fog keeps the valley cool, reducing evaporation from the needles.
Droplets also condense on needles and create ‘fog-drip’
which is the equivalent of around 10 inches (25 cm) of rainfall
per year.
The soil in the redwood forest is rich and high in organic content.
The trees prefer sandy soil, especially in areas with high alluvial
deposits along riverbeds. They do not survive in soil with high
mineral content.
The trees also grow far better on the north slopes. If you walk
into Muir Woods from the entrance and follow a trail up to the right,
the redwoods will very soon give way to a drier mixed evergreen
forest. On the opposite (north) slope the redwoods continue for
around half a mile.
The Coastal Redwoods are the tallest trees on Earth. The National
Geographic Society measured the ‘Tall tree’ in Redwoods
National Park in 1963 at a height of 367.8 feet (112 m). The tallest
trees are taller than a football field is long, and taller than
the Statue of Liberty or a 35-story building. The tallest trees
grow in the low elevation slopes within a few miles of the coast.
Here, they are protected from strong winds and are closer to water
and moisture-laden fog. Under ideal conditions they will grow at
2-3 feet (60 – 90cm) per year. On average it takes a tree
200 years to reach full canopy size. They are also one of the widest
trees on earth, reaching diameters at their base of over 30 feet,
(9.3 meters) and one of the oldest trees in existence, the oldest
on record having lived 2,200 years when it was cut down. The redwoods
in Muir Woods are relatively young – none are over1000 years
old. There are two explanations for this – one is that the
environment is too dry and windy and the soil is too thin. The second
theory is that the whole forest burned down around 1000 years ago.
The average redwood lives for 500 – 700 years. Most trees
die from wind throw (falling over) – one of their few weaknesses
is that their roots only penetrate 8 – 12 ft and spread 60
– 80 ft. They will intertwine with roots from other trees
for strength. Others may die from excessive fire damage or a severe
flood. The trees have no known diseases and do not suffer from insect
damage. The color of the tree comes from tannin and related compounds
in the heartwood and bark.
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